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Chakwal چکوال
General Information
Country	Pakistan
Province	Punjab
Coordinates	32°56′00″N 72°54′00″E / 32.933333, 72.9
Elevation	498 m (1,634 ft) AMSL
Time zone	PST (UTC+5)
No. of Towns
Population	80,6201 (1998)
Estimate	107,5081 (2006)
Government
Nazim (Mayor)	Sardar Ghulam Abbas
Naib Nazim (Deputy Mayor)	Sardar Aftab Akbar
No. of Union Councils	5

Chakwal (Urdu: چکوال) is the capital of Chakwal District, Punjab, Pakistan and is located 90 km south-east of the federal capital, Islamabad.² As noted in District Gazeteer Jhellum 1904, the city is named after Chaudhry Chaku Khan ³, chief of the Mair Minhas Rajput tribe from Jammu, who founded it in 1525 C.E during the era of the Mughal Emperor, Zaheerudun Babur. It remained a small but central town of Taluka Dhan Chaurasi for many centuries. In 1881, during the British era, it was declared the Tehsil Headquarter. It was finally upgraded to district status in 1985 by the President of Pakistan, General Zia ul Haq. The area of Chakwal City is about 13 square kilometers.

Geography

Chakwal is located in the Dhanni region of the Pothohar Plateau in northern Punjab, Pakistan. The Pothohar Plateau (also spelled Potwar or Potohar) (Urdu: سطح مرتفع پوٹھوہار) was the home of the ancient Soan valley civilization, which is evidenced by the discovery of fossils, tools, coins, and remains of ancient archaeological sites. The Indus Valley civilization is known to have flourished in this region between the 23rd and 18th centuries BC. Some of the earliest Stone Age artefacts in the world have been found on the plateau, dating from 500,000 to 100,000 years. The crude stone recovered from the terraces of the Soan testify to human endeavour in this part of the world from the inter-glacial period. The Stone Age people produced their equipment in a sufficiently homogeneous way to justify their grouping. Around 3000 BC, small village communities developed in the Pothohar area, which led to the early roots of civilization.

The people of Pothohar speak Pothohari. However, the people of Chakwal or the Dhanni area in particular do not speak Pothohari and are ethnologically not regarded as Potoharis. They speak a distinctive Chakwali or Dhani dialect of Punjabi, which is closer to dialects spoken in the Shahpur-Salt Range area and also has a slight element of Sarieki.

History

Early history

The area of Dhanni (Chakwal Tehsil) for a long time in history was an uninhabited part of the Jammu state of the Dogra, Rajputs. Although the powerful tribes like Ghakkars and Janjuas ruled the adjoining territories in Potohar, Kahoon valley and the ancient Thirchak Mahal, Dhanni remained a hunting ground for the Rajas of Jammu.

As tradition goes, in the year 1190 C.E, Raja Bhagir Dev, a Jamwal prince, while on a hunting expedition fell in love with a Muslim woman belonging to a tribe of wandering Gujjar grazers. In order to marry her, he converted to Islam and consequently was asked by his father to stay away from Jammu and settle in this tract along with his men. Raja Bhagir Dev was named Muhammed Mair after conversion to Islam and his descendants as Mair-Minhas Rajputs. The Mairs preferred pastoral rather than agricultural pursuits for the next few centuries; but remained confined to this area.

Mughal era

When around 1525 C.E, the Mughal King Babur stopped by in this area on his way to Kashmir, his army was ambushed by the hostile tribes from the adjoining areas. However, the herds owned by the Mairs came in their way and Babur's Army was awaken, hence the hostile Rajputs had to flee. The next morning, the Mughal King summoned the chief of the tribe, Raja Sidhar and offered him two thirds of the land of Dhanni, if he provided labour to help the Kassar tribesmen to drain the water from the great lake which then covered all the eastern part of the tehsil, up to the ridge followed by the Bhon-Dhudial road.^{citation needed}

Raja Sidhar, chief of the Mair-Minhas Rajputs and Gharka Kassar, chief of the Kassars, a Mughal sub-tribe took up the job along with their respective tribesmen. They drained the lake water by cutting through Ghori- Gala, by which the Bunha torrent now flows. Subsequently, they proceeded to take up the country. The Emperor also awarded them the title of Chaudhry, and administration of the newly formed Taluka, which ever since has been called 'Dhan Chaurasi' or 'Maluki Dhan'.

Chaudhry Sidhar settled villages named after his sons Chaku, Murid and Karhan and as Chaku Khan became the chief, he decided to settle in Chakwal, the village named after him and make it the center of administration of the Taluka. Whereas, Kassar chiefs founded the villages of Bal-Kassar and Dhudial⁴.

The following few lines about the origins of Chakwal are noted in the District Gazetter Jhelum 1904, "Chakwal has from time immemorial been the seat of administration in the Dhanni Country. It is said to have been founded by a Mair-Minhas Rajput from Jammu, whose descendants are at the present day proprietors of the land in the neighbourhood. It is still the Headquarters of tribe"

This story is also confirmed by the Hindu family of Gadihok, who happened to be "Qanoongoes" of the area throughout the Mughal era and carry many pertinent certificates by the Mughal Emperors. The Gadihoks claim that Dhanni was named "Malooki Dhan" after their forefather, Malook Chand who happened to be with Babur during settlement of the area and prepared all the paper work; but they agree that the area was given to Mairs, Kassars and Kahuts; while the Gadihoks received only a certain portion of the revenue as an 'inam'.

However, the Janjua's calim that the area was called "Malooki Dhan" after their ancestor, Raja Mal Khan. The Kassars have a similar claim and they say that the area was actually "Baluki Dhan" named after their ancestor Bal Kassar and it was only due to a lithographic error that was noted as Maluki instead of Baluki in Ain-e-Akbari. In contrast to all the afore mentioned claims, "Ain-e-Akbari" indicates Gakkhars as the rulers of the land.

The following account about the ownership of Dhanni seems most plausible.

It is generally accepted by all^{citation needed} that Mair Minhas Rajput, Mughal Kassar and Kahut Quriesh were the three landowning tribes that were originally settled in this tehsil by the Mughal Emperor Zaheerudin Babur and were the only three land owning tribes in Dhanni till the time of its annexation by the British. The main concentration of the Mair-Minhas Rajputs being in the center (Haveli-Chakwal), North-East (Badshahan), West (Rupwal) and South West (Thirchak-Mahal). The Kassars in the northern part of the tehsil, the area called 'Babial' and 'Chaupeda' and the Kahouts in 'Kahutani' in the South East.

These tribes and especially the Mair-Minhas Chaudhrials of Chakwal rose to further prominence during the short rule of Sher Shah Suri who handed them control over the adjoining territories, as far as Swan River in Potohar and the Pind Dadan Khan plains in the South.

After the Mughal King Humayun returned to India with the help of the Persians, he handed over the entire Potohar including Dhanni to the Gakhars, who had helped him escape from India during Sher Shah's revolt and reign. The Gakhars moved the Capital of the Taluka from Chakwal to a neighbouring town called 'Bhon' and stationed their 'Kardars' there. Consequently, the village of Bhon grew bigger than Chakwal in the Mughal era.

The Mair-Minhas and Mughal Kassar tribes again rose to power after King Aurangzeb's death. They had supported his son Moazzam Shah in his quest for power and in return he re-appointed the Mair-Minhas chief Gadabeg Khan as the Taluqdar and Chaudhry of the entire 'Dhan Chaurasi', whereas rule of the Kassar Chaudhrys was confirmed in Babial and Chaupeda 'illaqa'.

Sikh era

Their rule over Dhanni continued during the Sikh era as one of Mair chiefs, Chaudhry Ghulam Mehdi had invited Sardar Mahan Singh to this side of river Jhellum. Also, their Dogra cousins Raja Gulab Singh and Dhian Singh were very powerful in the Lahore Durbar, so the influence of Chakwal Chaudhrials during the [Sikh era] was considerable and hence Chakwal once again became the centre of activity in the area. It was during that era that Dhanni breed of horses became very popular and even Maharaja Ranjeet Singh's personal horses were kept in the stables of the 'Chakwal Chaudhials'.

British era

In the Second Anglo-Sikh War at Chaillianwala in 1849, they supported the Sikhs and hence their Jagirs were confiscated by the British and even the lands in their headquarters, Chakwal were distributed among their tenants. Consequently, Chakwal started growing as a city and was declared a tehsil Headquarters in 1881.

Administration

In addition to being the district capital, Chakwal city is also the administrative centre of Chakwal tehsil (a subdivision of the district). The city of Chakwal itself is divided into five Union Councils:⁵

• Chakwal City-I
• Chakwal City-II
• Chakwal City-III
• Chakwal City-IV
• Chakwal City-V

Martial traditions

Major General Muhammed Akbar Khan

Major General Muhammed Iftikhar Khan

Chakwal is known for providing a large number of soldiers to the British and later to the Pakistan armed forces. The following is a short list of them:

• The first native Indian to get the Victoria Cross was Subaidar Khudadad Khan from Chakwal
• The first Indian to be commissioned and become a General in the British Indian Army was General Muhammed Akbar Khan from Chakwal
• The first designated C-in-C of the Pakistan army was General Iftikhar Khan, who died in an aircrash also belonged to Chakwal.
• The first Muslim to be an officer in the Indian Corps of Engineers and the first Engineer-in-Chief of the Pakistan Army, General Muhammad Anwar Khan was from Chakwal.
• The first Indian Commander in the Cavalry, Brigadier Gen. Muhammed Zafar Khan (PA-12) was from Chakwal.

The latter four were all sons of Khan Bahadur Raja Fazaldad Khan and belonged to the famous Mair-Minhas Rajput tribe of Chakwal. After the creation of Pakistan, Chakwal has produced more Army soldiers and generals than any other area in Pakistan.^{citation needed}

Education

Colleges and universities

Government College, Chakwal is a graduate level college for men. It was the first College to be established in a Tehsil Headquarters after the creation of Pakistan in 1949. Raja Muhammed Sarfraz Khan (M.L.A 1929-58, Chairman District Council Jhelum) played an important role in the development of the area during the British era and in the early years after Independence by patronising schools and playing an instrumental role in establishing the Government College, Chakwal in 1949. Consequently, a considerable number of youth were able to find their way to the top as army officers and civil servants.

After Independence in 1947 a government college for women was also established.

There is sub branch of UET in District Chakwal.It was established in 2005

Higher/technical education

At the government level, University Of Engineering, Taxila established a temporary campus in the city and work is underway for the construction of a Campus building.

A new Government College for Women is also being established in Balkassar.

In the private sector, a polytechnic college called the Swedish Institute of Technology has been established by a nationwide educational chain.

Two commerce colleges affiliated with University of The Punjab have also been started in the private sector called CSC College of Commerce and Myer's College of Commerce.

A campus affiliated with a virtual university called the Global Institute has also been established in Chakwal.

An Allama Iqbal Open University study centre by the name of Raja Sarfraz Khan Institute is also in the city. ALLAMA IQBAL Open University has also opened its regional office in Chakwal, in Basti Allahwali mohallah Sargojra near the old railway line, which is helping the students of Chakwal a lot as they did not now have to travel to Islamabad.

Schools

The Arya Samaj founded the first ever school in Chakwal at the start of the 20th Century. It was followed by a Khalsa School. Islamia school was the first school established by a society of Muslims. The land was donated by the Chaudhrial of Chakwal, Khan Bahdur, Raja Aurangzeb Khan. Later, his son Raja Muhammed Sarfraz Khan kept patronizing the school which has a now a long list of noted alumni. The Government School for boys was established in 1930's. In the 1960s Yousaf Saigol, a business tycoon and owner of the famous Saigol Group built the first modern school in his native village Saigolabad.

Jinnah Public High School was founded in early 70s. Many old students of Jinnah Public School are in Pakistan Armed Forces, telecom and IT companies. Late Principle Mrs. Akram Sultana dedicated her whole life and effort to make this school an example for all private institutes.

After Chakwal was declared a district in 1986, a modern District Public School was established in the late 80's by the government. (DPS) District Public Higher Secondary School is one one of the best known schools of Chakwal District. It was founded in the 1980s by the district government. It is a semi government school for both boys and girls. Since its foundation this school has produced good results.

One of the leading colleges since 1989 is PAF Inter College Kallar Kahar. It has produced several doctors, engineers, IT professionals.

Lately, quite a few good private schools have been established in the private sector. Fauji Foundation, Khursheed International, The Educators, Bahria Foundation, Noble House School and Nexus School Bhaun are providing decent education in purpose built campuses.

A Cadet College was established in Kallar Kahar by General Nazar Hussain in 1997. The College has produced excellent results and is already in the league of top Cadet Colleges in Pakistan.

Myers College was founded in 1999 by Raja Yassir H. Sarfraz, a grandson of Raja Muhammed Sarfraz Khan(late). The instituition is patterned after English Public Schools and offers Cambridge O/A Level qualifications.In the last few years, Myer's College students have shown some tremendous results at the Cambridge International Examinations.

Newspapers and magazines

Considering Chakwal's small population, the number of local newspapers being published from here is relatively large. Dhan Kahoon is the oldest and most popular local newspaper. Chakwal Point, Chakwal Nama, Press Forum, Aasar, Dhudial Nama, Bab-A-Chakwal and Total are also published in significant quantities. An English newspaper called, " The Revolution " is also published in Chakwal.

Monthly "Aabadiyat" is the first and so far the only Urdu magazine being published from here and covers all spheres of life.

Libraries

Chakwal has only one public and very few private libraries, the largest of these is the Allama Iqbal Library located at the committee park. Most of the volumes there are in Urdu. The Government College for boys has a library of reasonable size and is open to the public. In the private sector, Myer's Library located at Myers College, Kot Sarfraz Khan has a large number of both English and Urdu books. There are no public or private libraries for children in rural areas of Chakwal.

Tourism

A view of Dhani Plains

Sunset at a Lake on River Dharabi

Canyons near Thirchak Mahal

Chakwal has landscape features including the canyons in Thirchak-Mahal and the yellow beds of "Surson". There are many man-made and natural lakes around the city in Kallar Kahar, Dhok Talian, Kot Raja, Khai, Khokar Zer and Dharabi. The Jhangar valley, Bisharat is situated on the road coming from Choa Saidan Shah facing West to East about 8 km in length between the villages of Kotli and Ara at 3,000 feet (910 m) above sea level. The weather during the summer is very pleasant and the hills are full of green bushes and olive trees. An interesting place of this valley is the Picnic Point of Chehl Abdal” hill top which is at 3,500 feet (1,100 m) above sea level. On the top of this hill is a shrine called Chehl-Abdal. Many people from local villages and from all parts of the country often visit the shrine and offer sacrifices. From the Chehl Abdal hill top one can see the great Punjab plains. To the north are the Margla hills and to the south one can see the Jhelum River. On the East & West side one can see the beautiful greenery of adjoining hills with rain forests consisting of thick jungle trees and bushes. This valley can be called “military valley” as 90% of old and young men have served or presently serving the Army. The men are very brave and have fought very bravely in World War I and II and other wars after the independence and have won many military medals.

Alexander the Great passed through this area (old Nandana Fort) near Ara on his way to fight Raja Poru on the banks of the Jhelum River in 326 BC.

Another well-known tourist place in the area is Kalar Kahar for which Zahir uddin Baber said “Kaller Kahar is a child of Kashmir. Imagine Kalar Kahar is just 2,500 feet (760 m) above sea level and Chehl Abdal is 3,500 feet (1,100 m) above sea level.

Larri pathan is another beautiful place in Chakwal. One faction of the Kakka Zai Pathans migrated from Afghanistan and settled in a village called Lari Pathan. The famous temple-fort of Katas Raj is nearby and so are the salt mines in Khewra.

Chakwal has a well connected road network including a road to Jhelum and Lahore via the Sohawa road, a road to Pind Daden Khan via the Choa Siaden Shah road, a road to Sargodha via Bhon and Khushab, a road to Rawalpindi via Mandra and to Mianwali via the Talagang Road. It is connected to the GT road between Peshawar and Lahore via Sohawa and Mandra, the Indus Highway via Mianwali, and M2 Motorway via Kallar Kahar and Balkassar exits. The travelling distances and time has reduced considerably to Lahore, Rawalpindi, Sargodha and Faislabad since the commissioning of the M2 Motorway

Community service

There are several community organizations working in District Chakwal including the following:

• The National Rural Support Program (NRSP)is working in different sectors since 1996 in Chakwal District.
• Bedari--- Working on Human rights specially on women's rights in chakwal and is currently running its project on violence against women with support of UNDP in Chakwal District.
• The National Commission for Human Development (NCHD)is a semi-governmental organization working in Chakwal District in education and volunteering.
• Potohar Organization for Development Advocacy (PODA) provides rural communities/farmers access to rights-based education, facilitates links with government and provides training in sustainable agriculture, livelihoods and advocacy skills.
• PLAN International with partner NGOs 1-SABAWON 2-RASTI 3-IRADAH 4-MIED 5-MMH 6-HEAL 7-SACHET working in 19 UCs in chakwal at community development in 56 rural communities
• The Almadina Welfare Trust is a welfare organisation.
• IRADAH Mr. Izhar Hussian, the founder of IRADAH, an NGO in Pakistan also belongs to Chakwal. He convinced and involved a group of dedicated persons to establish a voluntary organization for the rehabilitation of the disabled and named it, 'Initiative for Raising Awareness Development' and 'Assimilation of the Handicapped' abbreviated as IRADAH. He was elected founding president of IRADAH.

Environment

Although the areas around the Chakwal city and generally free of pollution as there isn't much industry in the area, Chakwal city is one of the polluted cities in Pakistan. There is no government sponsored garbage disposal system and citizens in urban and rural areas do not have proper means to dispose off garbage particularly plastic bags. Most of the streets in the city and small towns are littered with trash that results in infectious diseases in summer and rainy seasons. During Musharaf's regime three cement factories were constructed in the Salt Range hills.

Agriculture

Chakwal is a semi-arid area with serious shortage of water for agriculture. Over 70 per cent of the population engages in agriculture, mostly subsistence agriculture that is dependent on rain. Most villages have no irrigation system.

Social services

There is only one government hospital in Chakwal city. Unlike other areas in Pakistan, Chakwal does not have women's hospitals that can provide gynecological diagnoses or services. Women who can afford it visit private hospitals in other cities of Pakistan.

Notable people

Ayaz Amir, the current MNA (Member of the National Assembly), is world known writer.

General Majid Malik, the former minister in Zia and Nawaz Sharif's regimes still has a significant role in city's politics.

The Chaudhrials of Kot Sarfraz and Kot Choudrain, Chiefs of the Mair-Minhas tribe played an important role in Chakwal's history. Sardars of Dullah, an important and influential family of Chakwal played a significant role in the politics and history of Chakwal. The notable of this family are Sardar Sultan Sikander Khan, Sardar Ashraf Khan former provincial minister.

General Muhammed Akbar Khan Raja Muhammed Sarfraz Khan,Pakistan's president from 1969-1971, and architect of Pakistan Civil War, Agha Muhammad Yahya Khan was born in Chakwal in 1917.

Justice (R) Rustam Ali Malik

• Justice (R) Rustam Ali Malik, Chairman Punjab Service Tribunal (Ex-Judge, Lahore High Court)

References

• District Gazeteer Jhelum, 1904
• Government College Chakwal, Yearbook, 2005

See also

• List of Cities of Punjab, Pakistan by Area