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Circle Bakote is a cluster of Union Councils in the eastern part of Abbottabad District in the North-West Frontier Province of Pakistan. Circle Bakote is located on the upper and west bank of the Jhelum River at Kohalla Bridge. The region is somewhere between 65 kilometres and 90 kilometres northwest of Islamabad. "Bakote" means the "land of forts". The Kanhar and Jehlum rivers are the two main rivers in Circle Bakote. Famous hill stations in the area are Miran Jani, Mukeshpuri, Thandiani, Pather Gali, Ayubia, Khanas Pur and Nathia Gali.
Circle Bakote and surrounding areas have a rich history - going back thousands of years. Historic excavations first began under colonial rule, when researchers such as Sir John Marshal - who as part of the Archaeological Survey of India uncovered many relics in the area, studies continue to this day by scholars such as Asko Parpola and others. Historically this region was part of the Taxila Kingdom of Gandhara, [1] there are many relics in the area dating to the Vedic Age as it was en route to Moshpuri where a Vishnu temple used to be. After the arrival of Islam, the area became part of Kashmir.
In 17th century a Dhond Sardar (chief), Lahr Khan, divided his territory by his brothers and finalised the borders from Manwan ni Hel to Lora on the west bank of the river Jhelum to Islamabad, the last edge of last UC Birote of Hazara Division on East-south. This line was drawn from the river Jhelum to Sulleal (Lower Birote) to Aarhi, now called Hadd at upper Birote, Kanair Kas to Sorjal, Arwarh, Thoba (Barhean), to Lora. The tribes used the jirga system to govern themselves
This partition of land was accepted by the Nalwa Singh administration of Ranjit Singh and by Major Abbott, the first commissioner of Hazara. In 1800 Maharaja Ranjit Singh attached this region to the Lahore Darbar, this area was later sold to Maharaja Gulab Singh of Kashmir under the Amritsar Agreement.
During British rule, rebellion had broken out - after the failure of this revolt and as a punishment for the war of independence waged by the local Tribes, this area was first annexed to Murree in February 1859, and then became a part of the Hazara Region in November 1859, both areas being under the direct rule of Britain.
The dominant people in Circle Bakote are the Lehral Dhond Abbasi family, they battled against the Sikh rulers under the command of Pir of Plasi at Balakot in 1830, and also fought against the British in 1857 at Murree.
The musical tradition of Circle Bakote was inherited from the earlier Hindu civilisation. Music is a compulsory element of Hinduism, and when Muslim tribes entered here the music was also changed and it changed into a profession rather than a religious tradition, that adopted by special families called Mirasies. These families performed not only on wedding but on seasonal occasions as Grass Cutting ceremony (LAITRY), Roof Building of a House, (PAHCHI) Etc. The other duties of Mirasies were to distribute invitations of weddings in shape of sweets homemade items, they were also used to spy on rival tribes or tribal chief before wedding caravan (Janj).
The mountains of Circle Bakote and Murree Hills were under the control of Gakhars and Dhond Abbasies and Karhrals were their sub-feudal lords since four centuries. Sikh army personal of Gulab Sing and Lahore Darbar were illiterate, greedy and very brutal against Muslim tribes of area Downfall of Music and Arts in the Sikh Era [2]. They looted and gutted their houses, slaughtered them and got rewards of Rs. five Nanakshahi per child head and Rs. 10 for adult ladies or male headscitation needed. These circumstances compelled inhabitants of area to change their names as SOLLA KHAN, PUNNU KHAN, BUNK KHAN, LALLI KHAN etc in every tribes of Kohsar.citation needed.
The Circle Bakote area was formerly part of the Hazara area, the Government of British India issued District Gazetteers every year in which details of population demography was published. The Circle Bakote population was not mentioned separately but the overall statistics of District Hazara and Tehsil Abbottabad are available.
In 1981 the Hazara area was divided and Abbottabad was formed as a district with two tehsils, In 1981, Abbottabad district had a population of 977,212 whilst Tehsil Abbottabad (a sub division of the district) - had an area of 1,802-square-mile (4,670 km2) and a population of 667,328 including 51% of Circle Bakote. In 1990 the total population of the district was 1,425,032 including Circle Bakote 43%.
Politically Hazara was a solo constituency of NWFP Legislative Assembly in 1935 to 1951, Hazara was divided into three constituencies.
Under the new administrative system - there are eight UCs of Circle Bakote. This area had been divided into 13 UCs in 1983 but some of these councils were merged in 2000, Moolia was merged into Bakote, Malkot into Palak , Chamyali into Pattan Kalan and Birote Kalan and Khurd were united. The Circle Bakote1 region is composed of the following union councils:
The mountainous area of Circle Bakote and Murree Hills contain many tribes. The Dhond Abbasi and Dhanyal are the largest groups, but other groups are Karlal, Satti, Kethwal, Gakhars, Awans, Syeds, Gujjars, Khakha, Bumba, Rajput, Bhati, Rehmanis,khokhars and many others. Before Islam this area was dominated by Hindu Kshatriya tribe who worshipped a goddess Kohala Devi in Dewal temple. The Kethwal, believed to be the oldest tribe in area, came from Iran 2500 years ago fought and expelled the local Dravidians and occupied the area until the invasion of the Dhonds in the mid fifteenth century - the Kethwal embraced Islam in 1090citation needed.
The Dhond Abbasi tribe form a large part of the population in Circle Bakote and Murree hills. Dhond Abbasis are the forth largest group overall in the NWFP, and the largest in Hazara Division and the seventh in Punjab by population. They have their own language called Dhondi/Kereali (see also Hindko) - also known as Dhondi, and they have completely revolutionised the culture and civilisation of the area. The Dhond and Dhanyal tribe are all Sunni Muslims. The language of the tribes is sometimes called 'Dhondi/Kareali' 2. They are descendants of Shah Wali Khan whose nickname was Dhond Khan and Mohazam Shah Alia Dhanni Pir. There are two major Dhond Abbasi families living in Banda Jaat. One is headed by Mirdad Khan Abbasi, and the other is headed by Allah Dad Khan Abbasi (Paharlal). Their father Noor Ahmed Abbasi migrated to Abbottabad from Banda Khair Ali Khan. However, half of their family members are still based in Banda Khair Ali Khan.
Karhrals family is old tribe of Circle Bakote and migrated in mid of fourteen century, when they rebellion against Gakherhs by co-operation of Dhonds Abbasi tribe of Birote. Mojwal family of Basian had taken vacant place of Bakote by force. Karal family was not residing at Birote and out side area. A family of Karal tribe was residing at Bakot and still have property and now living at Tajwal, nathia gali, havelian, haripur, rawalpindi, basera, lora, Punjab. Karal family came from Turk. Its original tribe name is karluks. Karlal tribs are found on all places of earth.
Goojars or Gurjars are believed to be the oldest tribe of the area, they were one of the tribes of Ancient India that battled against Alexander The Great, (known here as Sikandar-e-Azam), when he launched his invasion of Western India.
Gakhars also known as Kayanis are a prominent tribe of Circle Bakote. They are of Iranian origin and according to Shahnameh written by Persian Poet Firdowsi in 1000 AD, their ancestors ruled for centuries. They have written and documented history going back to thousands of years BC.
The Alvi Awan are a well known tribe of Circle Bakote and are scattered throughout the region and form majorities in some areas of Abbottabad, Birote, Thandiani, and Nathia Gali. The main tribe of Alvi Awan of Birote is Naik Mohammedal and Taj Mohammadal.
The Bhati Rajpoot tribe is influential and was known for their bravery as warriors. The new generation of this tribe now works as businessmen or serve in the Pakistan Air Force. Yaqoob Khan, a British Government contractor during the colonial era was a member of this tribe. Now a days Mohammed Hafiz is most active political person. He also participated in UC Birote election in 2004 as general councillor but not succeeded.
There are Three kinds of Syeds, one is the "Meshadi" who migrated from "Rahi Lora" of District Abbottabad to Birote. The second is "Bokhari Syed" who migrated in the middle of the 19th century to Kahu Sharqi, Ali Abad (Pichbhanna) Bhan (Birote Khurd) third is "Tirmizis Syeds" who are decender of Hazart Peer Baba (bunair sheerif).
Jadoons of the SalarZai sub-tribe settled in Circle Bakote from Havelian District Haripur during the 1870s and settled in Kahoo Sharqi, Basian and Osia Murreecitation needed. A few houses remain in Basian today. A famous member of the Jadoon tribe in Circle Bakote was Qazi Abd-ul-Haq Jadoon who performed the pilgrimage to Mecca on footcitation needed. In Basian many members of the Salar Zai subtribe migrated to Rawalpindi after the 5 October 2005 earthquake tragedycitation needed.
There are another tribe in all union councils of Circle Bakote named Rakheals. Most of them converted and emerged themselves in to Dhond Abbasi tribe by ignorance or demand of time. They basically belonged to Rajpoot Khashterea tribe and came in the mentioned areas in different times in history. They were worriors and guards the people of area from invaders attacks. They were armed with swords and arrows and lived on the boundaries of villages licenced by Gakherh dynesty during 1000 to 1800 AD. They migrated or emerged themselves in Dhond Abbai tribe during political and cultural disterbanc of Sikh era (1800-1845). Sikhs killed, murdered and slaughtered innocent people of Circle Bakote and Murree Hills and wone Rs. 10 (Nanak Shahi) reward from their government in Jamon (Indian held Kashmir). Dhond Abbasi along many others tribes flew to nearby mountain peaks and also changed their Muslim names into Hindu names. That cultural anarchy benefited to Rakheal tribes and they embraced Dhond Abbasi ethnical kingdom. People of area narrated that Naker Kutbal (Birote Khurd) karachi based merchant Imteaz Abbasi son of Hakam Khan is also belonged to Rakheal tribe. Word "RAKHEAL" derived from "RAKHI" and RAKHI means "to guard" or "secure" in Dhondi/Kareali Language.
Dhaneal are ofsprings of Baba Dhani of Karore, 32 km north east from Pakistani capital Islamabad. As known history only one man of same tribe came in Kahoo Sharqi was the grand grand father of teacher Nisar and Hokumdad (nick name Nalkas). They are more than two dozens male members of Dhaneals of Kahoo Sharqi. Important personalaties of the tribes are late Qazi Wajahet, Abdur Rab Nishter (husband of Mrs Farrukh Bibi)etc.
Dhaneal tribe in Osea and Gohrha Gali are in majority and they are teachers since 1872 and founders of first local and historical Vernicular Primary school. They also inhabitant in Pichwal near Kanair Kas. Amjed Ali Qurban is a social personality in Karachi belonged to this tribe. Gorha Gali Dhaneal main family is Raja Feyaz Sewer MPA.
khokhars are well known tribe of circle Bakote.They have written and doccumented history. They are subcast of of Awan(kutab shahi Awan).The new generation of this tribe works as buisnessmen serve in Pakistan Army,Police,Pia and many other Government departments.Haji Ali Zaman is famous and well known politician of this tribe as well as well known personality of circle Bakote(former BD member).Dr Muhammad Hafeez Khokhar is teaching in a well known H/medical college of Rawalpindi and also completing his Law studies and also working as a editor of anually KOHSAR magazine.
See Article on Dhondi/Kareali language
During the twentieth century as education spread through this hilly region, Urdu was the medium of learning. The rural culture and civilization was revolutionised and new thoughts and ideas came into being. Many Urdu newspapers and magazines as Daily Zimidar Lahore, Daily Inqilab Lahore, Wakil Amretser, Muslim Rajpoot Ludhheana, Madina Bajnore - stimulated the poetry of the hill people. Much of the poetry is oral and not written down.
Muztar Abbasi (1931-2004) was a scholar from the Dhond Abbasi tribe of Murree Hills and Circle Bakote. He was a patron of the Esperanto language in Pakistan. He translated the Holy Quran and wrote a biography of the Islamic prophet Muhammad in Esperanto .
Many books have been published in Murree and Circle Bakote related to local history. The historians wrote only some information but not in depth and not fulfilling the demand of anthropologists and history, containing unauthentic information from Oral histories. There have also been tribal histories books such as "TAREEKH-E-ALVI AWAN" by Muhabbat H Awan, "Tareekh-e-Gakhrhan" by Raja Haider Zaman Keani and "Tarekh-e-Sattian" by Sabir Satti which are detailed researchcitation needed.
In prehistory the people of this area were Hindus, however during the reign of King Ashoka and the spread of Buddhism, this area became a route for Buddhist scholars who travelled from Taxila Buddhist University to Kashmir via Lora, Narha, Thoba (Barhian), Nathia Gali, Moshpuri, Birote Khurd and Domail Kanair Pull on the River Jhelum.
There have been road links between Punjab and Kashmir for thousands of years. For some 1500 years these road links have been established via Kohala, Lora, Musearhi (Murree old name) and Khwadder. Kashmiri rulers all depended on the trade link from Punjab to Kashmir.
In 1350 the Turks conquered Kashmir along this route. When the Mughals appointed their governor Yousaf Ridhvi in 1587, they made contacts through Kashmir Highway via Kohala. Another route between Kabul and Srinager was established when Abdullah Khan Kabuli became ruler of Kashmir - the route was Kabul, Mansehra to Srinager via Hasan Abdal. In the second decade of 1800, Hazarawals suspended supply lines of the Sikhs as result of the bloody wars they were engaged in. Hari Sing Nalva, a Sikh General tried to open this route by bloodshed and war of Balakot but did not succeed. The only route between Kashmir and Punjab remained Upper Dewal Kohala, which they developed. Another route wasbetween Kashmir and Potohar (Land of Gakherhs) along with right bank of River Jhelum from Srinager to Mirpur, AJK. Rawalpindi (formerly Gajnipura) emerged as a socio-political as well as commerce centre of North Punjab in 1802 after the defeat of Gakherhs and the emergence of the Sikh government of the Lahore Darbar. Malka Singh as a new ruler set up Raja Bazar as a major trade centre between Punjab and Kashmir and Kohala as a centre of Raja Bazar. His successor Sardar Jewan Singh occupied all Murree Hills and Circle Bakote controlling the properties of local tribes, i.e. Dhond Abbasi, Karhral, Gakherhs and other tribes and transferred them to Hindu merchants by force. At that time these was no bridge in Kohala and travellers crossed the River Jhelum at Knair Pull or Pattan. Knair Pull is the oldest place crosspoint in the region going back. The remains of this points are also can be seen at Domail, 200 feet (61 m) above the New Kohala Bridge, 100 feet (30 m) above Kanair Pull Dak Bangalow and new build road from eastern part of New Kohala Bridge to Bashir Petrolepump. There were three routes in second decade of 1800 from Kabul, Rawalpindi to Kashmir. FIRST ROUTE was Hawailian, Khaira Gali, Malkot. Dewal to Khawadder crossing, second was Haripur, Lora, Danna, Gorha Gali, Kotli Sattean to Patan Dhalkot and third was Rawalpindi, Musearhi, Upper Dewal to Kohala. The resistance movement against the Sikh Authorities built forts (Kote in local language) and checkposts (Kotlies) in Dannah, Dewal, Bakote and Sahlian to maintain law and order.
The new construction of Upper Dewal Kohala Road started in 1836 on the orders of Gulab Singh, the Maharaja of Kashmir, where Sikhs armed troops patrolled 24 hours and fought local people ruthlessly. After the government of Ranjit Singh ended in 1845, the notorious Amritsar pact was signed among British rulers and Maharaja Gulab Singh - as a result of this all areas of Circle Bakote were aligned to Kashmir. This event compelled the local tribes to rebel, they destroyed Upper Dewal Kohala Road, delinked all bridges and had taken positions against Sikh troops. They killed more than 100 troops in Kohala [3] and hanged their dead bodies across right and left banks of River Jhelum. The agitation produced fruitful results and all regions of Circle Bakote were reunited with Punjab in same year after a few months.
In 1857 local tribe's war of independent failed and British Government started development of Murree City and built Rawalpindi Murree Road. All bridges including Salgran is a masterpiece of Mistri Noor Alahi of Birote. A new friendship pact was also signed between the Dogra Raj of Kashmir and British Government of the Punjab in 1870.
In 1873 the construction of the Kashmir Highway (Murree Srinagar Road) via Kohala started. The contractor was Sardar Hoshnak Singh and the bridge builder was Mistri Noor Alahi of Birote. It was completed via Aliyot, Phagwari, Lower Dewal and Lower Birote in 1885 and carts began travelling. In 1871 the first Kohala suspension bridge was built which was destroyed in the 1991 flood. Notable events are:-
After Pakistan came in to being, many transporters came forward and invested million of rupees in this sector both in Northern Punjab and Azad Kashmir. A half dozens transporters of Azad Kashmir run their services on Kashmir Highway but the route was on Rawalpindi to Muzaferabad, Rawalakot, Bagh, Dhirkot, Chinari and Athmuqam. Allied Chiragh Din and Srinagar Road Transport (SRT) Company purchased more used buses and restarted their operation. Murree Hills Transport Company monopoly was on Rawalpindi Kohala rout which was broke by Pindi Murree Transport Company in 1951 and started operation with 32 seater six buses. Mentioned company got rout permit of Rawalpindi Lora, Rawalpindi Ayubia and Rawalpindi Rewat on Kohala Bridal (Now Upper Dewal Kohala) Road. Demand of Upper Dewal Kohala Road construction was echoed in President House in ex-capital Karachi and in 1958 when federal Capital shifted in Islamabad, the importance of Upper Dewal Kohala Road emerged higher and higher as a permanent supply line of Pakistani armed forces in Azad Kashmir. A large landslide damaged Kashmir Highway near Aliyote in 1960 and road was closed for six months, it was a great concern for GHQ, therefore federal government called emergency meeting of Corp Commanders in Rawalpindi in last December and recommended construction work of Upper Dewal Kohala Road under supervision of Pak Army. In first phase construction work started on this road in mid of 1961 from Garheal to Rewat. The second phase completed in 1964 from Rewat to Dewal and then suspended. Pakistan Army faced many hurdles in logistic movement during 1965 war as a single road connection with AJK and the importance of Upper Dewal Kohala Road came more aggressive again as a defence linkage way for Armed Forces. Pak Army restarted road construction in 1966 on Sikh made old rout and it was completed in 1969. The first bus service started on this rout was Murree Hills Transport Company drove by Mohammed Rezaq Khan of Birote. The second Pakwatan Bus servpany Bagh, Gora Gali, Sunny Bank, Kuldanna, Ghikagali, Lower Topa, Aliyote, Phagwarhi and Garheal Camp emerged as populated towns along Kashmir Highway.
The first press was established by Shahab Al-din Jadoon of Basian at Workshapi Mohalla Rawalpindi in 1992. A person from Bakote is also a proprietor of a press in Messy Gate Rawalpindi. Raja Mubeen Akhtar Abbasi of Reala/Malkot possessed a printing press in Islamabad. All four Daily newspaper of Murree and Circle Bakote, Daily Ausaf, Daily Azkar, Daily Musalman and Daily Nawa-i-Hazara have their own presses. Daily Nawa-i-Hazara started publication from Abbottabad and Islamabad - the office is in Islamabad, Abbottabad, Mansehara, Haripur, Havialian and other cities.prominent journalist M.Khurshid Abbasi is the owner of the Daily Nawai-i-hazara.nawae hazara is running very good at the moment.
The earliest books published on this area were during the British Raj - The first was "MEMORENDUM ON THE NWFP" by Cap. Bonami and published from Calcutta (now Kolkata), India. Other notable books are:-
Mohammed Ata Raheem of the Pakistan Science Foundation (also a professor at the Quaid-e-Azam University) compiled a history of Circle Bakote and Murree Hills from 1684 to 1947. It was published in 1976.
"Zameeni Sitaray" A book by young Journalist from Bakote Sharif "Hanan Ali Abbasi". This book is autobiography of 100 successful personalities from different field of life in Pakistan. Hanan is youngest author and writer of Circle Bakote and his articles are published in countries leading news papers. Zameeni Sitaray is available in all famous Books Stalls of Islamabad and Pakistan.